Here's a line of code for getting the current passage's tags metadata in Snowman. I ended up pulling it out of the the story xml as I didn't see it in the passage object. Tags are retrieved as a space delimited string.
<% var tags = $(story.el[0]).find('tw-passagedata[name=\"' + window.passage.name + '\"]').attr('tags'); %>
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The above code did not seem to work for me. Perhaps the Snowman source has changed since the original post? After some experimenting, I came up with this slight change, which seems to work. But please let me know if there's some side effects or downside that I should be aware of! or if there's an even slighter change that will also work. This produces an array. Leave out the ".split(' ')" if you want a string.